FAQ

Construction & Building Materials

What are 110mm pipes used for in construction and drainage?

Short answer: 110mm is the go-to size for UK underground foul drainage. You use it to carry waste from the soil stack (WC, baths, showers, kitchen) into the underground network, inspection chambers and gullies around the property. It’s the standard brown uPVC line for new runs, extensions, and repairs.

Where you actually use 110mm pipe on site

Access & terminations: Add rodding points for maintenance with the 110mm Aluminium Rodding Eye and seal dead ends with a 110mm Cap.

Why 110mm in the UK?

It’s the standard diameter for domestic underground foul drains—big enough for flow, small enough to lay easily, and the default size most fittings are built around. Always use brown uPVC underground drainage; internal grey wastes aren’t suitable below ground. You can read more in our guide to underground drainage systems.

All 110mm fittings are also EN1401 kitemarked, meaning they’re approved for underground use and meet UK building regulations.

Quick buying checklist (so you get it right first time)

  • Pipe & length: Choose a 110mm uPVC pipe (commonly 3m) with single or double sockets depending on your run layout.
  • Joints: Ring-seal (push-fit) for speed, or use a slip coupler for repairs without cutting pipe.

Fittings mix: Plan bends (15°–45° preferred), junctions, access points, and end caps to avoid last-minute issues — see the 110mm bend, junctions, rodding eye, and cap.

What’s the difference between 110mm and 160mm drainage pipes?

Short answer: Both 110mm and 160mm pipes are standard in UK underground drainage, but they serve different purposes. 110mm pipes are the go-to for most domestic foul drainage, while 160mm pipes are designed for larger properties, site mains, or heavy surface water runs where higher capacity is needed.

Where each size is used

  • 110mm pipes (domestic standard):
     The most common size for carrying waste from homes — toilets, bathrooms, kitchens — into the main underground system. Our 110mm pipes & fittings include bends, junctions, gullies and couplers to set up a complete run.
  • 160mm pipes (bigger capacity):
     Used when you need more flow — e.g. connecting multiple properties, handling commercial drainage, or forming the site main that your 110mm runs feed into. You’ll find all options in our 160mm underground drainage fittings.

Choosing the right pipe for the job

Key difference in a nutshell

  • Diameter: 110mm = standard domestic, 160mm = higher-capacity.
    Flow rate: 160mm can handle far more volume — perfect for site mains.
  • Regulations: Building regs usually require 110mm for single dwellings, but larger runs feeding into sewers often step up to 160mm.

In plain terms: use 110mm for the house and 160mm when you need to carry a lot more water or waste. Always make sure fittings are EN1401 kitemarked for underground use.

Are gully traps still necessary in modern drainage systems?

Short answer: Yes — gully traps are still essential on most drainage systems. They stop foul smells and gases from escaping back up through external drains, and they also help trap debris before it enters the underground run.

What a gully trap actually does

  • Prevents odours: The water seal in a gully trap acts like a barrier, blocking foul air from rising back into gardens, patios, or driveways.
  • Catches debris: It stops leaves, silt, and food scraps (from kitchen waste pipes) from going into your 110mm drainage runs and causing blockages.
  • Handles surface water: Connects rainwater downpipes into the underground system without letting sewer gases escape.

Do modern systems still use them?

Absolutely. Even though new builds have more advanced inspection chambers and rodding points, the gully trap is still the simplest way to:

  • Link kitchen waste into underground drainage.
  • Connect rainwater downpipes safely.
  • Protect underground pipework from blockages and smells.

For example, a standard choice is the 110mm Plain Bottle Gully, which integrates directly into your underground drainage run.

Alternatives?

In rare cases, modern “back inlet gullies” or inline traps can be used, but the principle is the same: you still need a trapped connection. They’re not outdated — they’re required by building regulations in most situations.

Bottom line: Yes, gully traps are still necessary. They keep smells out, protect against blockages, and are still a key part of every underground drainage system.

What are drain chambers and when do you need them?

Short answer: Drain chambers (also called inspection chambers) are underground access points that let you inspect, clean, and maintain your drainage system. You need them wherever pipes join, change direction, or drop in level — basically, anywhere blockages are most likely to occur.

What a drain chamber does

  • Access for maintenance: Provides a way to rod, jet, or camera-inspect your 110mm underground pipes.
  • Keeps drainage flowing: By allowing access at key points, chambers prevent long-term build-up that can lead to expensive repairs.
  • Compliance: Building regs in the UK require chambers at every major junction or change of direction.

When you actually need a drain chamber

  • Pipe junctions: Where two or more 110mm runs meet, you’ll need a chamber.
  • Sharp bends: If you’re using more than a 30° change in direction, add a chamber instead of forcing the pipe.
  • Changes in level: Where one run drops down to another (e.g. 110mm into 160mm mains via a 160mm × 110mm Level Invert Reducer).
  • Property boundaries: Typically, one chamber is placed near the edge of the property where private drains connect to public sewers.

What types are available?

  • Shallow chambers: For garden or surface runs — quick access but not designed for deep systems.
  • Deep chambers: Built for deeper drains and manhole access.
  • Modular systems: Modern plastic chambers are lightweight, easy to assemble, and fully compliant.

Bottom line: drain chambers are not optional. If you’ve got a change of direction, a junction, or a level change, you’ll need one. They’re the only way to maintain and future-proof your underground drainage system.

How do twin wall pipes compare to standard underground drainage pipes?

Short answer: Twin wall pipes are heavier-duty, corrugated pipes designed for surface water drainage on roads, car parks, and large commercial sites. Standard 110mm and 160mm underground drainage pipes are smoother, lighter, and used mainly for domestic foul and surface water systems.

Key differences between twin wall and standard drainage pipes

  • Strength & durability
     Twin wall pipes have a corrugated outer wall for strength and a smooth inner wall for flow. This makes them far stronger than standard single-wall PVCu drainage pipes, which is why they’re used in load-bearing areas like highways and industrial yards.

  • Application

    • Standard pipes (110mm & 160mm): Perfect for foul drainage in homes and small builds. They connect to gullies, drain chambers, and reducers to carry waste safely to the mains.
    • Twin wall pipes: Handle high volumes of surface water and withstand heavy traffic loads. Think roadside drains, large soakaways, and land drainage.

  • Sizes available
     Standard underground pipes usually come in 110mm or 160mm, whereas twin wall pipes are manufactured in much larger diameters (225mm, 300mm, 450mm, and beyond).

When should you use twin wall pipes?

  • On driveways or roads where drainage pipes will sit under heavy vehicle weight.
  • For big surface water systems — e.g., large soakaways, attenuation tanks, or stormwater control.
  • Commercial or civil engineering projects where standard pipes aren’t strong enough.

Bottom line: If you’re running foul or basic rainwater drainage at a domestic level, standard 110mm/160mm pipes are all you need. If you’re dealing with heavy loads or big surface water systems, twin-wall pipes are the upgrade that ensures long-term durability.

What are the most essential building materials every site needs?

Short answer: Every construction site has its own specifics, but there’s a core set of building materials you’ll find on nearly every project — from structural fixings to protective finishes. These essentials keep projects safe, compliant, and on schedule.

The must-have building materials on site

  • Aggregates, cement & fillers
     The base of almost any construction job. Products like fillers and sealants are used daily for patching, bonding, and finishing.
  • Adhesives & putty
     Whether bonding wood, plastics, or metal, quality construction adhesives are site staples. Putty is equally essential for glazing, sealing gaps, and small repair jobs.
  • Fixings & fasteners
     From wood screws to nails, and heavy-duty joist hangers — these small components hold entire structures together.
  • Roofing supplies
     Every build needs protective finishes. Roofing felt and roofing supplies provide weatherproofing and structural resilience.

  • Drainage materials
     Whether for foul or surface water, underground systems depend on pipes and fittings like 110mm pipes, 160mm pipes, and drain chambers.
  • Protective finishes
     Expanding foam for insulation and sealing gaps, alongside chemical anchors for structural strength, are go-to essentials.

Why these matter

Without this core set of materials, most construction jobs simply stall. They form the framework, weather protection, and finishing layers of any project — keeping builds compliant and liveable.

Bottom line: If you’re running a construction site, stock up first on fixings, adhesives, roofing, fillers, and drainage materials. These are the non-negotiables every project depends on.

What type of adhesives work best for construction projects?

Short answer: The best adhesive depends on what you’re sticking together. On construction sites, you’ll need a mix of grab adhesives, PU foams, sealant adhesives, and specialist bonding products to cover wood, metal, plastics, masonry, and mixed materials.

Types of construction adhesives that actually work

  • Grab adhesives
     Heavy-duty “instant grab” products are perfect for bonding wood, skirting boards, plasterboard, and panels without screws. They’re widely used because they stick instantly and cure strong. Check out our construction adhesives range for multi-purpose options.
  • Polyurethane (PU) adhesives & foams
     Expanding PU-based adhesives fill gaps while bonding. They’re excellent for uneven surfaces, insulation, and lightweight blockwork. Pair with expanding foam for sealing and bonding in one step.
  • Sealant adhesives
     Hybrid sealant adhesives combine flexibility and strength, making them ideal for roofing, window frames, and outdoor applications where movement or weather exposure is a concern. They double as both sealant and structural adhesive.

  • Specialist adhesives

    • Wood-specific glues: For carpentry and joinery.
    • Chemical anchors: For securing studs, bolts, and rebar into masonry or concrete. Browse our chemical anchors for structural applications.

Choosing the right adhesive (quick guide)

  • For wood & trims: Grab adhesive.
  • For uneven or insulating surfaces: PU foam or PU adhesive.
  • For roofing or external jobs: Hybrid sealant adhesive.
  • For structural fixings into concrete/brick: Chemical anchors.

Bottom line: Don’t rely on “one-size-fits-all.” A proper construction site keeps a mix of adhesives — grab adhesives for general fixing, PU foam for gaps, sealant adhesives for weatherproofing, and chemical anchors for structural jobs.

What is construction tape used for on-site?

  •  From patching small tears in scaffolding netting to quick-fix surface sealing, tape provides a stopgap solution until permanent repairs are made.

Why construction tape matters

It’s not glamorous, but it’s indispensable. The reason construction crews always have rolls of tape on hand is simple: it saves time, improves safety, and cuts down on wasted material.

Bottom line: Construction tape isn’t just tape — it’s a site essential. Whether you’re marking hazards, sealing roofing materials, or bundling pipes, it’s the fastest, most versatile fix you’ll reach for all day.

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What’s the difference between fillers, sealants, and putty?

Short answer: Fillers, sealants, and putty all repair gaps and cracks, but they’re not interchangeable. Fillers patch and smooth, sealants protect and flex, and putty is a traditional glazing and minor repair material.

  1. Fillers – for patching and smoothing
  • What they do: Fillers are designed to repair holes, cracks, and surface imperfections in plaster, wood, or masonry.
  • Best use cases: Wall repairs, skimming surfaces before painting, and fixing dents in woodwork.
  • Why they matter: They create a smooth, paint-ready finish but aren’t designed to flex or waterproof.
  1. Sealants – for waterproofing and flexibility
  • What they do: Sealants provide a watertight, flexible barrier between joints. Unlike fillers, they move with the material.
  • Best use cases: Sealing around windows, roofing, bathrooms, and anywhere materials expand and contract.

  • Why they matter: They prevent leaks, draughts, and moisture damage where rigid fillers would crack.
  1. Putty – for glazing and traditional repair
  • What it does: Putty is a pliable, slow-drying compound historically used in glazing.
  • Best use cases: Bedding glass into wooden or metal frames, small gap-filling jobs in joinery, and restoration work.
  • Why it matters: It’s durable and easy to shape but not as modern or versatile as fillers or sealants.

Quick comparison (at a glance)

  • Filler = Patch & smooth → walls, wood, plaster
  • Sealant = Flex & protect → bathrooms, roofing, joints
  • Putty = Glaze & shape → windows, heritage repairs

Bottom line: Use fillers for cosmetic prep, sealants for flexible waterproofing, and putty for glazing or traditional repairs. Knowing when to use each keeps jobs faster, safer, and longer-lasting.

Scaffolding & Site Safety

What’s the difference between scaffolding netting and debris netting?

Short answer: Both protect workers and the public, but they’re built for slightly different purposes. Scaffolding netting is designed for full-frame coverage, wind reduction, and site safety, while debris netting is specifically made to catch falling materials and prevent hazards below.

Scaffolding netting – the site shield

  • What it is: A mesh wrap fitted to scaffolding structures, available in rolls for covering entire elevations.
  • Primary use: Reduces wind loading on the scaffold, prevents lightweight debris from escaping, and provides site privacy.
  • Example: Browse scaffolding netting options for durable, UV-stabilised rolls that are easy to tie on.

Debris netting – the fall catcher

  • What it is: A stronger, tighter mesh that hangs vertically or horizontally to catch and contain falling debris.
  • Primary use: Stops bricks, tools, and other materials from endangering workers or the public below.
  • Example: See our debris netting designed to meet safety compliance on active sites.

Key differences at a glance

  • Scaffolding netting: Wind + dust + site shielding.
  • Debris netting: Safety from falling materials.
  • Together: Many sites actually use both — scaffolding netting for wraparound coverage and debris netting in high-risk zones like walkways.

Bottom line: Scaffolding netting controls the environment, while debris netting controls the hazards. If you want full site safety and compliance, you usually need a combination of both.

Why is debris netting important for construction sites?

Short answer: Debris netting is critical because it protects workers and the public from falling hazards, keeps sites compliant with UK safety regulations, and minimises dust and mess around active scaffolding. It’s a low-cost safeguard that makes a high-impact difference in site safety.

  1. Protection from falling materials

Construction sites involve constant movement of tools, bricks, timber, and fittings. Without debris netting, anything knocked off a scaffold or platform becomes a potential hazard. Netting creates a containment barrier that stops accidents before they happen.

  1. Legal and regulatory compliance

UK health and safety standards require employers and contractors to take reasonable measures to prevent falling debris. Debris netting is one of the simplest ways to achieve this and demonstrate compliance during inspections.

  1. Site cleanliness and dust control

By reducing the spread of small particles, netting helps contain dust, plaster fragments, and packaging from blowing across the site. This makes for a cleaner, safer environment for both workers and nearby pedestrians.

  1. Public and worker confidence

Visible safety measures like debris netting reassure workers and the public that the site is being managed responsibly. It reduces liability and builds trust with clients, inspectors, and neighbours.

Bottom line: Debris netting isn’t optional — it’s essential. It protects people, keeps projects compliant, and creates a safer, cleaner site environment for everyone.

Where can I buy scaffold boards and scaffold poles?

Short answer: You can buy scaffold boards and poles directly from construction suppliers that specialise in scaffolding equipment. These aren’t just generic timber or metal items — they’re built to strict safety standards, and you should always source them from reputable suppliers like MPS Construction Supplies.

Scaffold boards – safe working platforms

  • What they are: Timber planks graded and treated specifically for use as scaffolding platforms. Unlike ordinary timber, scaffold boards are tested for strength, slip resistance, and durability under site conditions.
  • Where to get them: MPS stocks fully compliant scaffold boards, available in standard lengths to fit scaffold frames.

Scaffold poles – the framework of the system

  • What they are: Galvanised steel tubes used to build the vertical and horizontal structure of scaffolding. They’re engineered for high load-bearing and long-term durability in outdoor environments.
  • Where to get them: You can order scaffold poles in multiple lengths, ready to pair with couplers, boards, and netting.

Why buy from a specialist supplier?

  • Safety compliance: Boards and poles must meet BS EN 39 and BS 2482 standards in the UK.
  • Consistency: Genuine scaffold boards are machine-stamped and banded for safety; scaffold poles are galvanised to resist corrosion.
  • All-in-one sourcing: Alongside boards and poles, you can also pick up scaffolding netting, debris netting, and couplers from the same place.

Bottom line: Don’t cut corners with timber yards or non-specialist metal stockists. For safety and compliance, buy scaffold boards and scaffold poles from dedicated suppliers like MPS Construction Supplies — it ensures your scaffolding is site-legal, durable, and safe.

What safety standards apply to scaffolding supplies in the UK?

Short answer: In the UK, scaffolding supplies must meet British Standards (BS) and European Norms (EN) to guarantee safety, strength, and compliance. That means scaffold boards, poles, fittings, and netting can’t just be “any timber or metal” — they need to be tested and stamped to exact standards.

Scaffold boards – BS 2482

All scaffold boards in the UK must comply with BS 2482:2009. This ensures:

  • Correct timber grading and treatment.
  • Metal banded ends for reinforcement.
  • Load-bearing tests for safe working platforms.
     Our scaffold boards are supplied in full compliance with this standard, stamped and ready for site.

Scaffold tubes & poles – BS EN 39

Scaffold tubes (poles) are required to meet BS EN 39:

  • Hot-dip galvanised for corrosion resistance.
  • Strict size and thickness tolerances for safe load-bearing.
  • Consistency across lengths to fit standard couplers and frames.
     Browse our scaffold poles to see EN-certified options designed for UK sites.

Couplers & fittings – BS EN 74

Every scaffold needs secure joints, so couplers and fittings must comply with BS EN 74. This standard sets out testing for:

  • Slippage resistance.
  • Corrosion resistance.
  • Durability under site load conditions.

Safety netting & debris protection

While netting itself doesn’t have a “BS” stamp like boards, it must meet European Safety Standards for mesh strength, UV stability, and fire retardancy. Products like scaffolding netting and debris netting from MPS are manufactured to meet these requirements and keep sites compliant with Health & Safety Executive (HSE) guidance.

Why standards matter

  • Worker safety: Prevents collapse, slippage, and breakages.
  • Legal compliance: HSE can shut down non-compliant scaffolds.
  • Liability protection: Using non-certified boards or poles exposes contractors to risk if accidents occur.

Bottom line: In the UK, scaffolding must meet BS & EN standards across boards, poles, and fittings. If your scaffolding supplies don’t show compliance marks, they shouldn’t be on site.

How does construction scaffolding improve site safety?

Short answer: Construction scaffolding isn’t just a way to “work higher up” — it’s a safety system. Done right, scaffolding reduces falls, secures materials, protects the public, and creates a stable platform for productivity.

  1. Safe access to heights

Without scaffolding, workers rely on ladders or unstable platforms. Properly built scaffolds provide:

  • Wide, stable walkways.
  • Guardrails and toe boards to prevent falls.
  • Non-slip working surfaces, often covered with scaffold boards.

This transforms dangerous tasks into safe, controlled work environments.

  1. Protection from falling materials

A huge part of site safety is preventing falling objects. With scaffolding:

  • Toe boards and barriers stop tools and bricks from slipping off edges.
  • Debris netting and scaffolding netting catch smaller items before they hit workers or pedestrians below.
  1. Public and perimeter safety

Scaffolding isn’t just for workers — it protects the public too. Site-facing netting and barriers prevent hazards spilling onto pavements, roads, or neighbouring properties, keeping projects compliant with HSE regulations.

  1. Secure material handling

Heavy loads like cladding, glazing, and masonry can be staged safely on scaffold levels, instead of being lifted awkwardly from ladders. This reduces manual handling injuries and improves workflow.

  1. Stability and compliance

Every scaffold pole, coupler, and fitting is engineered to BS EN standards for load-bearing strength. When you use certified scaffold poles and couplers, you’re not just building structure — you’re building safety compliance into the job.

Bottom line: Scaffolding isn’t a “temporary structure.” It’s a permanent safety measure during the life of a build. It keeps workers secure, materials contained, and the public protected — turning risk into routine.

Tools & Fixings

What are diamond blades used for in construction?

Short answer: Diamond blades are high-performance cutting tools used to slice through the toughest construction materials — concrete, asphalt, stone, tiles, and brick. Instead of relying on brute force, they use industrial-grade diamonds embedded in the rim to grind and cut with precision.

Why diamond blades matter on site

  • Concrete & reinforced materials
     Diamond blades are essential for cutting concrete slabs, kerbs, lintels, and blocks. Unlike ordinary blades, they don’t burn out under pressure — they stay sharp against abrasive aggregates. Check our range of diamond blades built for concrete work.
  • Masonry & bricks
     Whether you’re resizing bricks or trimming blocks for clean joins, diamond blades deliver smooth, accurate cuts without crumbling edges.
  • Asphalt & roadwork
     Road crews use segmented diamond blades to cut asphalt and tarmac, ensuring clean expansion joints and controlled breakouts.
  • Tiles & stone
     Diamond blades aren’t just for heavy work — they also cut ceramic tiles, porcelain, marble, and granite where precision and chip-free edges matter.

Types of diamond blades you’ll find

  • Segmented blades: Best for concrete, asphalt, and heavy-duty masonry. They cut fast and cool, but leave a rougher edge.
  • Continuous rim blades: Smooth, chip-free cutting for tiles and stone.
  • Turbo blades: The hybrid — faster than continuous, smoother than segmented. Ideal for site crews who need one blade that does a bit of everything.

The big advantage

Diamond blades don’t just “cut” — they grind material away at a microscopic level, meaning:

  • Faster cutting speeds.
  • Longer tool life.
  • Cleaner, safer cuts with less dust and heat build-up.

Bottom line: If you’re cutting concrete, masonry, stone, or tiles, a diamond blade is non-negotiable. It saves time, reduces effort, and delivers professional-grade precision every time.

How do concrete saw blades differ from masonry cutting tools?

Short answer: Both cut hard materials, but they’re designed for different jobs. Concrete saw blades are engineered to handle reinforced concrete and abrasive aggregates, while masonry cutting tools are built for bricks, blocks, and stone where precision and edge quality matter.

Concrete saw blades – heavy-duty performance

  • What they cut: Reinforced concrete, kerbs, lintels, and slabs.
  • Design: Thicker, stronger, often with segmented diamond rims to keep cool during long cuts.
  • Key advantage: Can slice through concrete that includes steel reinforcement without burning out.
  • Best example: Our range of concrete saw blades made for site crews cutting structural concrete.

Masonry cutting tools – accuracy on stone and block

  • What they cut: Bricks, blocks, tiles, and natural stone.
  • Design: Available as masonry cutting blades or handheld saws/grinders designed for precision.
  • Key advantage: Deliver smoother edges with less chipping, making them ideal for visible finishes (e.g. brickwork, paving, tiling).

The big difference in practice

  • Concrete blades = brute strength: Built to handle high loads, long cuts, and reinforcement.
  • Masonry tools = finesse: Built for surface-level, detailed, or aesthetic cuts where finish quality matters.

Bottom line: Use concrete saw blades when cutting into structural concrete and reinforced sections. Use masonry cutting tools when shaping or resizing bricks, tiles, and blocks for clean, accurate finishes.

Which cutting discs are best for metal vs. concrete?

Short answer: Cutting discs aren’t all the same. Metal cutting discs are thin, abrasive wheels designed for speed and precision on steel, aluminium, and rebar. Concrete cutting discs are thicker, diamond-tipped or bonded wheels that can handle stone, asphalt, and reinforced concrete without burning out.

Cutting discs for metal

  • Design: Thin (1–3mm), reinforced with fiberglass for safety. They spin fast and cut clean without generating unnecessary heat.
  • Best use cases: Steel sections, pipes, rebar, sheet metal, and aluminium trims.
  • Why they work: Their thin profile reduces resistance, meaning faster cuts and less load on the grinder.

Cutting discs for concrete

  • Design: Thicker, often segmented with industrial diamonds for grinding as they cut.
  • Best use cases: Concrete slabs, paving, stone blocks, roof tiles, and masonry.
  • Why they work: Unlike metal discs, they don’t rely purely on abrasion. Instead, the diamond edge grinds away hard aggregates, extending lifespan and maintaining cutting performance.

See our site’s range of cutting discs for both metal and masonry applications.

Quick comparison

  • Metal cutting disc = Thin, fast, clean cuts.
  • Concrete cutting disc = Thick, diamond-tipped, built for heavy-duty jobs.

Bottom line: Always match the disc to the material. Use thin abrasive discs for steel and metal, and diamond-edged discs for concrete, brick, and stone. Using the wrong type wastes time, burns tools, and risks site safety.

What are joist hangers, and how do you install them?

Short answer: Joist hangers are metal brackets that securely fix joists to walls, beams, or ledgers. They eliminate the need for notching or drilling, making structural connections faster, stronger, and fully compliant with building standards.

What joist hangers do

  • Support loads: They carry the weight of timber floor joists, decking beams, or roof rafters without weakening the wood.
  • Distribute stress: Instead of a single bolt or notch point, they spread load across the full hanger for greater strength.
  • Speed up installs: Using joist hangers is far quicker than cutting birdsmouth joints or mortices.

Types of joist hangers

  • Face fix hangers: Nail directly onto a wall plate, ledger, or beam.
  • Top fix hangers: Sit on top of a supporting wall or beam and drop the joist inside.
  • Adjustable hangers: Allow slight size and level adjustments for uneven timber.

How to install joist hangers (step-by-step)

  1. Mark positions: Lay out where each joist will sit on your support beam or ledger.
  2. Fix hanger: Nail or screw the hanger into position using approved fixings — never undersized screws.
  3. Insert joist: Drop the timber joist fully into the hanger, ensuring tight contact with the back plate.
  4. Secure joist: Nail through the side flanges into the timber to lock it in place.
  5. Repeat & level: Continue across the run, checking levels as you go to maintain even spacing.

Why they matter on site

  • Strength & compliance: Designed and tested to building standards for load-bearing applications.
  • Speed: A deck or floor can be framed in hours instead of days.
  • Longevity: Galvanised steel resists corrosion for long-term structural reliability.

Bottom line: Joist hangers are the backbone of timber framing. They’re fast to install, structurally sound, and the safest way to secure joists to supporting structures.

Are galvanised nails better than copper or aluminium nails?

Short answer: Yes — for most construction jobs, galvanised nails are better. They’re stronger, more versatile, and highly resistant to corrosion, making them the go-to choice for structural work. Copper and aluminium nails do have their place, but they’re more specialist.

Galvanised nails – the site standard

  • What they are: Steel nails coated in zinc to prevent rust.
  • Why they’re better:
    • Extremely durable outdoors.
    • Withstand moisture, rain, and exposure without corroding.
    • Stronger shear strength than copper or aluminium.

  • Best uses: General timber fixing, fencing, roofing battens, decking.
     Browse galvanised nails for standard construction applications.

Copper nails – specialist applications

  • What they are: Nails made from pure copper, naturally corrosion-resistant.
  • Why they’re useful:

    • Don’t react with certain timbers (e.g. oak or cedar).
    • Traditionally used in roofing, boatbuilding, and heritage projects.

  • Downside: Softer metal → not as strong as galvanised steel.
     See copper nails for roofing and specialist use.

Aluminium nails – lightweight but limited

  • What they are: Nails made from aluminium, lightweight and corrosion-resistant.
  • Why they’re used:

    • Good for fixing thin sheets or softwoods.
    • Non-reactive with aluminium sheeting.

  • Downside: Too soft for structural timber — bend or shear under load.

Quick comparison (at a glance)

  • Galvanised = Strong, versatile, weatherproof → everyday construction.
  • Copper = Corrosion-proof, heritage-friendly → roofing & restoration.
  • Aluminium = Lightweight, non-reactive → sheet materials, limited strength.

Bottom line: If you’re building, fencing, or roofing — choose galvanised nails. If you’re restoring a listed property or fixing cedar/oak, go copper. If you’re working with lightweight sheeting, aluminium has its place.

What are fixings in construction and why are they important?

Short answer: Fixings are the connectors that hold construction together — screws, bolts, anchors, nails, brackets, and specialist fasteners. Without the right fixings, even the best materials can fail. They’re small in size, but critical for safety, strength, and compliance.

What “fixings” actually mean on site

  • Screws & bolts: The backbone of timber, steel, and metal connections.
  • Anchors: Products like chemical anchors or expanding bolts that lock into concrete and masonry.
  • Nails: From galvanised nails for timber frames to copper nails for roofing.
  • Specialist brackets: Things like joist hangers that create secure structural joints.

Why fixings matter

  • Structural integrity: The wrong fixing can shear, corrode, or fail — compromising the entire build.
  • Safety: Critical in roofing, scaffolding, and load-bearing structures.
  • Speed: The right fixing speeds up installation (e.g. collated nail gun nails vs. hammering loose nails).
  • Longevity: Fixings treated for corrosion (e.g. galvanised or stainless) extend the life of timber, roofing, and drainage installs.

Examples of fixings in action

  • Attaching roofing felt with galvanised roofing nails.
  • Securing joists with hangers instead of cutting structural timber.
  • Bonding heavy loads into concrete with resin anchors.
  • Using high-performance wood screws for decking that won’t shear or rust.

Bottom line: Fixings may be small, but they’re the unsung heroes of construction. Choosing the right type ensures strength, speed, and safety across every stage of a build.

What nails are best for use in a nail gun?

Short answer: Nail guns need collated nails — designed in strips, coils, or cartridges to fit the tool. The best choice depends on the type of nail gun (framing, brad, or finishing) and the material being fixed (timber, roofing, decking, or sheeting).

Types of nail gun nails

  • Framing nails
    • Description: Heavy-duty nails for structural timber work.
    • Collation: Usually clipped head or round head in long strips.
    • Best for: Stud walls, joists, fencing, and decking.
    • Example: See our nail gun nails for collated packs designed for framing guns.

  • Brad nails
    • Description: Thin, lightweight nails used in finishing nailers.
    • Best for: Trim, mouldings, cabinetry — anywhere you don’t want visible nail heads.
    • Advantage: They leave a tiny hole, perfect for applying paint or filler.

  • Finishing nails
    • Description: Slightly heavier than brads, used in finishing guns.
    • Best for: Skirting boards, door frames, architraves.
    • Advantage: Stronger hold than brads, still discreet.

  • Roofing nails (coil nails)
    • Description: Galvanised nails collated in coils for roofing guns.
    • Best for: Fixing roofing felt, shingles, and battens.
    • Advantage: Fast firing, high capacity, rust-resistant.

Why collated nails matter

Ordinary loose nails won’t fit a gun. Collated nails are held together with paper, plastic, or wire, designed to feed smoothly and prevent jams. Using the wrong nails can damage the tool and compromise safety.

Quick selection guide

  • Heavy timber → Framing nails
  • Trim & finishing → Brads or finishing nails
  • Roofing → Coil roofing nails
  • Outdoor use → Always galvanised or stainless steel for corrosion resistance.